Monthly Archives: August 2016

SHR Day 5 – Bishop Pass Out

Dusy Basin to Parchers Resort to Long Lake

Yesterday, hiking along Dusy Basin on a mishmash of social tails, we expected to cross Bishop Pass Trail, but never did. Confused, this morning we push on thinking we have got to cross soon or we have gone too far. Well, we have, and we have to double back. Not a great way to start an otherwise beautiful morning.

Bishop Pass

Bishop Pass

We hump it over Bishop Pass (which is a resupply side trip, and not one of the 33 SHR passes). We then make the long journey down towards Parchers Resort and our waiting package. The trail feels longer and steeper than expected, but it is probably just my feeling of dread that we will be hiking back up this tomorrow.

We pass beautiful lakes, then make a miserably hot road walk to Parchers. They have our package. From the looks of it, they either wrestled it away from a bear, or backed over it with their truck. It has our next 8 days of food, so we take it with a smile.

We are too late for the breakfast buffet, but the guy says we can still have it if we want, because he hasn’t put it away yet. Kevin is not convinced that being left on the counter way past its time should be the leading selling point. As we check out the spread, the ratio of food to salmonella is not in our favor. Instead we examine the store/refrigerator. Clearly the fish here are better fed than the people, as there is a wider variety of bait worms than anything else. We choose a soda and ice cream bar, plug in our electronics for a sip of energy, and sort our food.

With no reason to stay at Parchers, we push back toward the pass. Every step is one we will not have to make tomorrow. We meet a woman carrying a handful of leashes and walking two loose dogs. She tells us she is looking for a third dog, who has wondered off. She keeps yelling at the other dogs to stay close. I am not sure what she thinks the dog-less leashes in her hand are for. She then mumbles, “Well I guess I would have heard her squeal if she had been…” her voice trails off. On that note, we also trail off, beginning to understand why the missing dog made a break for it.

We stop early at Long Lake, leaving the rest of Bishop Pass for tomorrow.

SHR Day 4 – Cirque (9), Potluck (10), Knapsack (11)

Palisade Lake to Dusy Basin

We wake, have breakfast, and enjoy a little more actual trail. We move above and along the trout filled Palisade Lake, looking for our trail exit and climb up Cirque Pass. We follow a social trail for a bit, then lose it completely. Our scramble up is massive. We keep looking back at the Palisades Lakes, impressed with our progress. We pass one tarn, then finally reach another. Surely we should be near the top, but we are in fact only half way.

Potluck Pass viewed from Cirque Pass

Potluck Pass viewed from Cirque Pass

From the top of Cirque Pass we stare across to Potluck Pass. Every sentence starts and ends with, “You have got to be kidding.” We read Roper’s notes over and over, yet nothing makes sense. What is he talking about?! We can see how to get down from this pass to the lake, but after that, the up looks like impassable scree with impenetrable cliffs at the top. We press on, totally unsure.

While at the bottom, we see southbound hikers on a cliff. They zig zag down seemingly impossible ledges. We watch to learn and reverse their magic tricks, but then they get stuck. Seemingly cliffed out, they are now stalled. We decide to get higher up the scree on the left than where they are stalled, before moving on to the invisible ledges. The scramble up the slippery and loose sand-rock is frustrating and heart pounding. Unsure what is above, or how far we need to go, we toss our poles up and keep climbing. Between the hand holds and foot holds, we need at least one of them to be working at all times. We finally scramble on the ledges to the right and zig zag to the top. Perhaps because of our route, or inability to comprehend Roper’s instructions, we agree this was far scarier for us than Frozen Lake Pass.

From Potluck Pass we traverse and try to maintain as much elevation as we can to reach and go over what is described as an inconspicuous pass. We then drop way down to the largest Barrett Lake. We are told to go around the east and north sides of the Lake, which we dutifully do, but continue wondering why we should not go around the closer south side. The social trail around the far side of lake more than makes up for the extra distance, but the cliffs guarding the outlet are the real reason for the recommendation.

Kevin’s ankle has been bothering him. We rest at the smaller Bartlett Lake, soaking our feet and enjoying snacks.

Looking at Knapsack Pass

Looking at Knapsack Pass

Looking up at Knapsack Pass, we can see obvious and relatively easy ramps way off to the left. But to reach them, we would have to descend, and frankly we are not in the mood. Instead we scramble hand and foot over boulders, as though we are climbing a crazy cubists stone ladder. Our trekking poles are completely useless, and frankly in the way. I am not sure anyone else has ever taken this particular route, but we were to the top much faster than expected.

Looking down on Dusy Basin

Looking down on Dusy Basin

Our drop down to Dusy Basin is relatively easy. At every turn another ramp magically appears, right when we need it. Instructed to stay high to avoid the boulders and willows, we make the long and tedious walk passed the chain of Dusy Lakes. We target the final one, which is closest to the Bishop Pass trail, our resupply exit tomorrow.

SHR Day 3 – Frozen Lake (7), Mather (8)

Marion Lake to Palisades Lake

We wake a half hour earlier than yesterday, but the other father and son team beat us out. Which, based on their 12-day schedule, they needed to do.

After a quick Pop-Tart, we work our way into Lake Basin. We are targeting an “L” shaped Lake, but the way seems ridiculously steep. We hold left and hump it up a non-Roper route, which ends up on a passable ridge. Our unauthorized maneuver, however, probably changes our angle for Roper’s next instruction. We make towards the lower right of the pyramid peak, which should put us in line with a talus lake, but we do not see it. We can go way right to a chute we think is below the unnamed lakes, or we can hold our line up what appears an easier approach from below Frozen Lake. We take the easy route. Once around the ridge we realize it is not so easy, and we are cliffed out. Rather than admit our mistake we push right and up a steep ridge, requiring hand holds, and cursing. What could be a disaster ends up great, as we slip back into our easier route just above the cliffs.

Frozen Lake Pass

Frozen Lake Pass

We are higher than the unnamed lakes, but crest nicely right near Frozen Lake, which is clearly a lake, but far from frozen. Frozen Lake Pass looks absolutely ridiculous. From our vantage point it is clear no human should attempt it. We hear, and eventually spot about half way up, the 12-day father and son team. Realizing we now have no excuse, we finish our snack and push on. We zig zag over loose talus blocks, sending several on adventures of their own.

I had read a previous article about someone who reached the top of Frozen Lake Pass, and was so frozen with fear, he refused to pass over and down the more difficult side. As we watch the father and son team enter the final chute, we wonder if they too will return shaken.

Looking Down From Frozen Lake Pass

Looking Down From Frozen Lake Pass

When we do finally reach the chute ourselves, I see the top of a hat moving at the pass crest. Oh my goodness, they are either taking a longer rest at the pass than we expected, or the pass really is un-passable. At the top we are greeted by a completely different south bound hiker. The father and son had passed on, and since we do not see them piled in the nasty talus below, we assume they did so rather successfully. The way down from this pass is awkward, unstable, and avalanche prone; but none the less doable. Doable is becoming a key phrase for us. Enjoyable, not so much.

At the bottom of the pass, I err and keep us too far left, pushing us to a wall of cliffs, rather than the flat Greater Basin we should be crossing to the John Muir Trail (JMT). We backtrack and find a ramp down, but it is too late. Kevin has more learning fodder for me, and uses it subtlety, yet effectively.

Mather Pass

Mather Pass

The JMT up and over Mather Pass is like walking on gentle carpet. We shoot to the top without stopping. It makes me embarrassed to have ever thought these were difficult on my PCT hike. Until doing High Sierra trail-less passes like Frozen Lake, I did not really know the meaning of difficult.

Rick and Kevin on Mather Pass

Rick and Kevin on Mather Pass

Palisades Lake Camp and Laundry

Palisades Lake Camp and Laundry

At Palisades Lakes we find a reasonable campsite by a stream. We clean our clothes and selves by swimming in a swirling pool, make an early Pad Thai dinner and retire.

SHR Day 2 – Gray (4), White (5), Red (6)

Glacier Lake to Marion Lake

Upper Glacier Lake

Upper Glacier Lake

We wake at upper Glacier Lake, then work our way down by the lower lake. From there we drop dramatically down to Glacier Valley. Roper advises us to stay left to avoid a cliff, which we heed, if only to be polite. We follow various ramps in the lodgepole pines. I think a ramp just means angled ground not quite as nasty as a cliff. It seems everything takes longer than it should.

We make our way to States Lake, where we see plenty of mule deer and delicious looking trout. There is a social trail to Horseshoe Lakes, which makes the travel and route finding quite easy.

At Gray Pass, I mess up. Gaining elevation is so difficult that I am very reluctant to give it up, which it turns out is not always a great idea. After walking high around a massive cliff, I cannot imagine that the pass we are aiming for is now below us. Luckily I have brought my son, who is more than willing to remind me of my mistakes. How else will I learn? Even with my blundering, we make it down to the top by noon.

North from Grey Pass to White Pass

North from Grey Pass to White Pass

From Gray Pass to White Pass requires a long steep down, and an even longer steep up. Exhausted, we make it to the top by 3:00pm.

To get from White Pass to Red Pass, Roper advises we climb even higher, then traverse across and down towards Red Pass. It is a long tedious down through miserable talus. We then climb up the last bit, arriving by 3:30pm.

Red Pass to Marion Lake

Red Pass to Marion Lake

From Red Pass we can see our evening’s goal, Marion Lake. Again, we plod down through loose talus. On the way we encounter extremely tame (borderline annoying) grouse, obviously on the wrong pass. Kevin and I both slip several times during our descent. Kevin rips his pants. We follow Roper’s advice and descend the left chute, which is surprisingly steep but doable as long as you’re willing to be part of a rock slide. I played the part of a rolling stone. The end of the chute looks like it drops you directly into the water, which Kevin proclaims less than ideal. It turns out there is a tiny ledge trail around the lake. We arrive at Marion Lake by 5:00pm. We pitch tents, filter water, and make mashed potato and tuna wraps.

Another father and son team arrive behind us and setup camp. They are also attempting the SHR, but have only allocated 12 days. We feel pushed trying it in 20. We wish them well, and doubt we will see them again.

Tomorrow is Frozen Lake Pass, one of the more difficult of the trip.

SHR Day 1 – Copper Creek (1), Grouse Lake (2), Goat Crest (3)

Roads End to Glacier Lake

We wake in Clovis at 4:00am, load up the car and head for Kings Canyon. Even in the dark we can feel the bark beetles destroying the forest. Logging trucks and wood chippers are parked along the road. Free anniversary day or not, there is no one at the gate as we enter the park. We arrive at Roads End, use a seated toilet one last time, and say goodbye to Terri. A little before 7:00am, we head up the monstrous climb to Copper Creek pass.

In his guide book, Roper describes the various trees and ecosystems passed on this steep climb. We pretend to care, but focus on moving rather than being moved. We rest occasionally, but manage to keep up a reasonable pace.

We only encounter a few descending hikers, including a condescending ranger. She asks to see our permit. If you have ever made a purchase at Costco, Walmart, or Fry’s Electronics, you know the feeling. It’s that awkward moment when the security employee asks for and stares at your receipt. What exactly is the employee looking for? The true test is that you can actually produce a receipt at all, and after that the terse stare and head nod is simply for show. In the ranger’s review of our permit, she stares politely for the appropriate amount of time, but does not notice that Kevin’s red ULA circuit, described on the permit, is now a much larger black Mountain Hardware.  I am pretty sure she is thinking about what she is going to have for dinner.

I ask the ranger about any stretches with limited water, but she is not familiar with the route, so instead recommends we simply carry a lot. She then asks if she can answer any more questions. I politely fail to point out that to answer more she needed to have answered a previous, which she had not. We smile and wish her well.

Grouse Lake Pass

Grouse Lake and Grouse Lake Pass

By noon we reach the summit and turn off trail for the first time. We scramble up a semi-social trail to Grouse Lake. We see a lake, but not a single grouse. We rest for about an hour before tackling Grouse Lake Pass. Roper describes it as easy, which says more about his skills than ours. At the pass, we try to follow his instructions to traverse and stay high. We are not sure he would be proud of our route, but we manage to make it up to Goat Crest Saddle.

The route down towards Glacier Lake is steep and we are tired. We followed Roper’s advice to stay left, but with so little snow on the pass this year, there may have been an easier way. At Glacier Lake we are spent. We have completed about 11 miles, and probably 8,000 feet of climbing. We pitch our tents, have Indian curries and rice, and collapse in bed. Tomorrow, like every day on this trek, will be a big day.

SHR Day 0 – Preparation

Zero Trail Miles

Sierra High Route

Sierra High Route

Tomorrow my son Kevin and I begin our trek on the Sierra High Route. We hope to complete it in 20-ish days, in time for Kevin to return to college. This mostly off trail route, parallel to and higher than the John Muir Trail, was designed by Steve Roper. You can read all about it on Wikipedia, or better yet in Roper’s guide book, not surprisingly called: Sierra High Route. The significant details are:

  • Start at Kings Canyon, Roads End
  • Hike north about 200 miles
  • Climb over 33 major Sierra passes
  • Exit at Twin Lakes, above Bridgeport

Unlike previous adventures, this one is not about the trail. It is about the passes. Attempting the route is a bit like participating in the American Ninja Warrior. Each pass presents a different physical or mental challenge, and you cannot move on to the next challenge, until you pass the current one.

The challenge passes, in order of appearance from south to north, are: Copper Creek (1), Grouse Lake (2), Goat Crest (3), Gray (4), White (5), Red (6), Frozen Lake (7), Mather (8), Cirque (9), Potluck (10), Knapsack (11), Muir (12), Snow-Tongue (13), Puppet (14), Feather (15), White Bear (16), Gabbot (17), Bighorn (18), Shout-of-Relief (19), Mammoth (20), Nancy (21), Inconspicuous (22), Whitebark (23), Overlook (24), Glacier Lake (25), Blue Lake (26), Vogelsang (27), Tuolumne (28), Mine Shaft (29), Spuller-Maul (30), Sky Pilot Col (31), Stanton (32), and Horse Creek (33)

We are staging in Clovis California. I have just finished guiding a Fitpacking trip that included the Rae Lakes Loop in King’s Canyon National Park. I came out at Roads End, the exact same trailhead where the Sierra High Route (SHR) starts. I spoke to a ranger on the way out and begged for our SHR permit. They normally only give it out between 1:00 and 4:30 the day before, or after 7:00am the day of. I reminded him that the climb out of the canyon is over 6,000 feet, and we will want to start as early as possible. Luckily, he is scheduled to hike up Copper Creek trail on the same morning. He smiled, said “You’re right,” and issued the permit.

Sierra High Route Permit

Sierra High Route Permit

Before the Rae Lakes trip, I tried my best for some “pay it forward from my PCT trip” karma by picking up two hitch hiking backpackers. They were a father and son team completing the Sierra High Route in the southern direction, opposite of our northern plan. The father was wearing a green ULA Circuit pack, exactly like mine. The son had a red ULA Circuit, exactly like Kevin’s. They were very healthy looking Canadians who said the trail had beaten them. They were making only about 5 miles a day in the talus and boulder fields, and had to jump off the High Route and on to the John Muir Trail several times. They said they would have needed 30 days or more to complete it. I was not very happy hearing their stories, and almost sorry I picked them up.

After Rae Lakes Loop, I do not have time to go home. My wife Terri rents a one-way drop Enterprise rental car and drives Kevin to Clovis. I do laundry, then pack gear and food for the first five days.

If there is one thing important to bring on a backpacking trip, it is probably a backpack. Kevin appears to be doing everything he can to break the Canadian bad karma by leaving his new red ULA Circuit at home. Too far to go get, Kevin decides to simply carry my “too large for this kind of trip” guiding backpack. To reduce some of the weight, I remove the top part of the pack, known as the brain. Kevin apparently has already reduced his own brain weight.

Tomorrow, Terri will drive us to the Copper Creek trailhead in our car, which I had driven here for the Rae Lakes trip. In celebration of the National Park Service 100 year anniversary, we are hoping they waive the $30 park entrance fee.